Kawasaki gpz 500 мануал

Chapter One

General Information

Chapter Two

Troubleshooting

Chapter Three

Periodic Maintenance, Lubrication and Tune-up

Chapter Four

Engine

Chapter Five

Clutch

Chapter Six

Transmission

Chapter Seven

Fuel and Exhaust

Chapter Eight

Electrical Systems

Chapter Nine

Wheels, Tires and Brakes

Chapter Ten

Chassis

Supplement 1982 and Later Service lnformation

Index

CONTENTS

Never exceed 36 psi (245 k Pa) air pressure as it will damage the oil seals.

Never exceed 71 psi (490 kPa) air pressure as it will damage the oil seals.

Fork oil level is checked with forks fully extended and the fork spring removed. Use oil grade SAE 5W-20. ‘Not specified.

C H A P T E R O N E

GENERAL INFORMATION

CAUTION is used to emphasize areas where equipment damage could result if proper precautions are not taken. A W A R N I N G is used to stress those areas where personal injury or death could result from negligence, in addition to possible mechanical damage.

SERVICE HINTS

Time, effort, and frustration will be saved and possible injury will be prevented if you observe the following practices.

Most of the service procedures covered are straightforward and can be performed by anyone reasonably handy with tools. It is suggested, however, that you consider your own capabilities carefully before attempting any operation involving major disassembly of the engine.

Some operations, for example, require the use of a press. It would be wiser to have these performed by a shop equipped for such work, rather than to try t o d o the job yourself with makeshift equipment. Other procedures require precision measurements. Unless you have the skills and equipment required, it would be better to have a qualified repair shop make the measurements for you.

Repairs go much faster and easier if the parts that will be worked on are clean before you begin. There are special cleaners for washing the engine and related parts. Brush or spray on the cleaning solution, let stand, then rinse it away with a garden hose. Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning solvent as you remove them.

W A R N I N G

Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. It presents an extreme fire hazard. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area when using cleaning solvent. Keep a fire extinguisher, rated for gasoline fires, handy in any case.

Much of the labor charge for repairs made by dealers is for the removal and disassembly of other parts to reach the defective unit. It is frequently possible to perform the preliminary operations yourself and then take the defective unit in to the dealer for repair, at considerable savings.

Once you have decided to tackle the job yourself, make sure you locate the appropriate section in this manual, and read it entirely. Study the illustrations and text until you have a good idea of what is involved in completing the job satisfactorily. If special tools are required, make arrangements to get them before you start. Also, purchase any known defective parts prior to starting on the procedure. It is frustrating and time-consuming to get partially into a job and then be unable to complete it.

Simple wiring checks can be easily made at home, but knowledge of electronics is almost a necessity for performing tests with complicated electronic testing gear.

During disassembly of parts keep a few general cautions in mind. Force is rarely needed to get things apart. If parts are a tight fit, like a bearing in a case, there is usually a tool designed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver to pry apart parts with machined surfaces such as cylinder head or crankcase halves. You will mar the surfaces and end up with leaks.

Make diagrams wherever similar-appearing parts are found. You may think you can remember where everything came from — but mistakes are costly. There is also the possibility you may get sidetracked and not return to work for days o r even weeks — in which interval, carefully laid out parts may have become disturbed.

Tag all similar internal parts for location, and mark all mating parts for position. Record number and thickness of any shims as they are removed. Small parts such as bolts can be identified by placing them in plastic sandwich bags that are sealed and labeled with masking tape.

Wiring should be tagged with masking tape and marked as each wire is removed. Again, do not rely o n memory alone.

Disconnect battery ground cable before working near electrical connections and before disconnecting wires. Never run the engine with the battery disconnected; the alternator could be seriously damaged.

Protect finished surfaces from physical damage or corrosion. Keep gasoline and brake fluid off painted surfaces.

Frozen or very tight bolts an d screws can often be loosened by soaking with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench o r WD-40, then sharply striking the bolt head a few times with a hammer and punch (or screwdriver for screws). Avoid heat unless absolutely necessary, since it may melt, warp, or remove the temper from many parts.

Avoid flames or sparks when working near a charging battery or flammable liquids, such as gasoline.

No parts, except those assembled with a press fit, require unusual force during assembly. If a part is hard to remove or install, find out why before proceeding.

Cover all openings after removing parts t o keep dirt, small tools, etc., from falling in.

When assembling two parts, start all fasteners, then tighten evenly.

Wiring connections and brake shoes, drums, pads, and discs and contact surfaces in dry clutches should be kept clean an d free of grease and oil.

When assembling parts, be sure all shims an d washers are replaced exactly as they came out.

Whenever a rotating part butts against a stationary part, look for a shim o r washer. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the condition of old ones. Generally, you should apply gasket cement to one mating surface only, so the parts may be easily disassembled in the future. A thin coat of oil o n gaskets helps them seal effectively.

Heavy grease can be used t o hold small parts in place if they tend to fall out during assembly. However, keep grease and oil away from electrical, clutch, and brake components.

High spots may be sanded off a piston with sandpaper, but emery cloth an d oil d o a much more professional job.

Carburetors are best cleaned by disassembling them and soaking the parts in a commercial carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rubber parts in these cleaners. Never use wire to clean out jets and air passages; they are easily damaged. Use compressed air t o blow out the carburetor, but only if the float has been removed first.

Take your time and d o the job right. D o not forget that a newly rebuilt engine must be

broken in the same as a new one. Refer to your owner’s manual for the proper break-in procedures.

SAFETY FIRST

Professional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury. If you observe a few rules of common sense and safety, you can enjoy many safe hours servicing your motorcycle. You could hurt yourself or damage the motorcycle if you ignore these rules.

1. Never use gasoline a s a cleaning solvent.

2. Never smoke o r use a torch in the vicinity of flammable liquids such as cleaning solvent in open containers.

3. Never smoke o r use a torch in a n area where batteries ar e being charged. Highly explosive hydrogen gas is formed during the charging process.

4. Use the proper sized wrenches to avoid damage t o nuts a n d injury to yourself.

5.When loosening a tight or stuck nut, be guided by what would happen if the wrench should slip. Protect yourself accordingly.

6.Keep your work area clean an d uncluttered.

7. Wear safety goggles during all operations involving drilling, grinding, o r use of a cold chisel.

8. Never use worn tools.

9. Keep a fire extinguisher handy and be sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires.

EXPENDABLE SUPPLIES

Certain expendable supplies are necessary. These include grease, oil, gasket cement, wiping rags, cleaning solvent, and distilled water. Also, special locking compounds, silicone lubricants, an d engine an d carburetor cleaners may be useful. Cleaning solvent is available at most service stations an d distilled water for the battery is available at supermarkets.

SHOP TOOLS

For complete servicing and repair you will need a n assortment of ordinary hand tools

(Figure 1).

4

As a minimum, these include:

Combination wrenches

Sockets

Plastic mallet

Small hammer

Impact driver

Snap ring pliers

Gas pliers

Phillips screwdrivers

Slot (common) screwdrivers

Feeler gauges

Spark plug gauge

Spark plug wrench

Special tools required are shown in the chapters covering the particular repair in which they are used.

Engine tune-up a n d troubleshooting procedures require other special tools and equipment. These are described in detail in the following sections.

EMERGENCY TOOL KITS

Highway

A small emergency tool kit kept on the bike is handy for road emergencies which otherwise

CHAPTER ONE

could leave you stranded. The tools and spares listed below a n d shown in Figure 2 will let you handle most roadside repairs.

a. Motorcycle tool kit (original equipment)

b.Impact driver

c.Silver waterproof sealing tape (duct tape) d. H o s e d a m p s (3 sizes)

e. Silicone sealer f. Lock ‘ N ‘ Seal g. Flashlight

h. Tire patch kit i. Tire irons

j. Plastic pint bottle (for oil)

k.Waterless hand cleaner

1.Rags for clean u p

Off-Road

A few simple tools and aids carried on the motorcycle can mean the difference between walking or riding back to camp or to where repairs can be made. See Figure 3.

A few essential spare parts carried in your truck o r van can prevent a day or weekend of trail riding from being spoiled. See Figure 4.

GENERAL INFORMATION

On the Motorcycle

a. Motorcycle tool kit (original equipment)

b.Drive chain master link

c.Tow line

d. Spark plug

e.Spark plug wrench f. Shifter lever

g. Clutch/brake lever

h. Silver waterproof sealing tape (duct tape)

i. Loctite Lock ‘ N ‘ Seal

In the Truck

a.Control cables (throttle, clutch, brake)

b.Silicone sealer

c.Tire patch kit

d. Tire irons

e.Tire pump

f. Impact driver g. Oil

W A R N l N G

Tools and spares should be carried on the tnotorcycle — not i n clothing where a simple fall could result i n serious injury from a sharp tool.

5

TROUBLESHOOTING AND

TUNE-UP EQUIPMENT Voltmeter, Ohmmeter, and Ammeter

For testing the ignition or electrical system, a good voltmeter is required. For motorcycle use, an instrument covering 0-20 volts is satisfactory. One which also has a 0-2 volt scale is necessary for testing relays, points, or individual contacts where voltage drops are much smaller. Accuracy should be _+ X volt.

An ohmmeter measures electrical resistance. This instrument is useful for checking continuity (open and short circuits), and testing fuses and lights.

The ammeter measures electrical current. Ammeters for motorcycle use should cover 0-50 amperes and 0-250 amperes. These are useful for checking battery charging and starting current.

Several inexpensive vakl’s (volt-ohm-milli- ammeter) combine all three instruments into one which fits easily in any tool box. See Figure 5. However, the ammeter ranges are usually too small for motorcycle work.

Hydrometer

The hydrometer gives a useful indication of battery condition and charge by measuring the

specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell. See Figure 6. Complete details on use and interpretation of readings are provided in the electrical chapter.

Compression Tester

The compression tester measures the compression pressure built up in each cylinder. The results, when properly interpreted, can indicate

general cylinder, ring, and valve condition. See Figure 7. Extension lines are available for hard- to-reach cylinders.

Dwell Meter (Contact Breaker

Point Ignition Only)

A dwell meter measures the distance in degrees of cam rotation that the breaker points remain closed while the engine is running. Since

II

Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon bulb types ($2-3) t o powerful xenon strobe lights ($20-40). See Figure 9. Neon timing lights are difficult to see and must be used in dimly l i t areas. Xenon strobe timing lights can be used outside in bright sunlight.

Tune-up Kits

Many manufacturers offer kits that combine several useful instruments. Some come in a convenient carry case and are usually less expensive than purchasing one instrument at a time. Figure 10 shows one of the kits that is available. The prices vary with the number of instruments included in the kit.

Manometer (Carburetor Synchronizer)

A manometer is essential for accurately synchronizing carburetors o n multi-cylinder engines. The instrument detects intake pressure differences between carburetors and permits them to be adjusted equally. A suitable manometer costs about $25 and comes with detailed instructions for use. See Figure 11.

Fire Extinguisher

A fire extinguisher is a necessity when working on a vehicle. It should be rated for both Class B (flammable liquids — gasoline, oil, paint, etc.) and Class C (electrical — wiring, etc.) type fires. I t should always be kept within reach. See Figure 12.

C H A P T E R T W O

TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLESHOOTING

since the motorcycle last started easily. For instance, was the weather dry then and is it wet now? Has the motorcycle been sitting in the garage for a long time? Ha s it been ridden many miles since it was last fueled?

Has starting become increasingly more difficult? This alone could indicate a number of things that may be wrong but is usually associated with normal wear of ignition an d engine components.

While it’s not always possible t o diagnose trouble simply from a change of conditions, this information can be helpful and at some future time may uncover a recurring problem.

Fuel Delivery

Although it is the second most likely cause of trouble, fuel delivery should be checked first simply because it is the easiest.

First, check the tank t o make sure there is fuel in it. Then, disconnect the fuel hose at the carburetor, open the valve and check for flow (Figure 2). If fuel does not flow freely make sure the tank vent is clear. Next, check for blockage in the line o r valve. Remove the valve and clean it as described in the fuel system chapter.

If fuel flows from the’hose, reconnect it an d remove the float bowl from the carburetor, open the valve and check for flow through the float needle valve. If it does not flow freely when the float is extended and then shut off when the flow is gently raised, clean the carburetor as described in the fuel system chapter.

When fuel delivery is satisfactory, go on to the ignition system.

Ignition

Remove the spark plug from the cylinder an d check its condition. The appearance of the plug is a good indication of what’s happening in the combustion chamber; for instance, if the plug is wet with gas, it’s likely that engine is flooded. Compare the spark plug t o Figure 3. Make certain the spark plug heat range is correct. A «cold» plug makes starting difficult.

After checking the spark plug, reconnect it t o the high-tension lead and lay it o n the cylinder head so it makes good contact (Figure 4). Then,

11

with the ignition switched o n , crank the engine several times and watch for a spark across the plug electrodes. A fat, blue spark should be visible. If there is n o spark, or if the spark is weak, substitute a good plug for the old one and check again. If the spark has improved, the old plug is faulty. If there was no change, keep looking.

Make sure the ignition switch is not shorted t o ground. Remove the spark plug cap from the end of the high-tension lead and hold the exposed end of the lead about )/8 inch from the cylinder head. Crank the engine and watch for a spark arcing from the lead to the head. If it’s satisfactory, the connection between the lead and the cap was faulty. If the spark hasn’t improved, check the coil wire connections.

If the spark is still weak, remove the ignition cover an d remove any dirt o r moisture from’the points o r sensor. Check the point or air gap against the specifications in the Quick Reference Data at the beginning of the book.

If spark is. still not satisfactory, a more serious problem exists than can be corrected with simple adjustments. Refer to the electrical system chapter for detailed information for correcting major ignition problems.

Compression

Compression — o r the lack of it — is the least likely cause of starting trouble. However, if compression is unsatisfactory, more than a simple adjustment is required to correct it (see the engine chapter).

A n accurate compression check reveals a lot about the condition of the engine. T o perform this test you need a compression gauge (see Chapter One). Th e engine should be at operating temperature for a fully accurate test, but even a cold test will reveal if the starting problem is compression.

Remove the spark plug and screw in a compression gauge (Figure 5). With assistance, hold the throttle wide open an d crank the engine several times, until the gauge ceases to rise. Normal compression should be 130-160psi, but a reading as low as 100 psi is usually sufficient for the engine t o start. If the reading is much lower than normal, remove the gauge and pour about a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder.

t

Refer to electrical chapter for correction

16

A worn throttle slide may cause erratic running and idling, but this is likely only after many thousands of miles of use. T o check, remove the carburetor top and feel for back and forth movement of the slide in the bore; it should be barely perceptible. Inspect the slide for large worn areas and replace it if it is less than perfect (Figure 8).

If the fuel system is satisfactory, check ignition timing and breaker point ga p (air gap in electronic ignition). Check the condition of the system components as well. Ignition-caused idling problems such as erratic running can be the fault of marginal components. See the electrical system chapter for appropriate tests.

Rough Running or Misfiring

Misfiring (see Figure 9) is usually caused by an ignition problem. First, check all ignition connections (Figure 10). They should be clean, dry, and tight. Don’t forget the kill switch; a loose connection can create a n intermittent short.

Sudden

Check compression (above). If power loss is sudden, damage to rings, piston, and bore or valves and seats are more likely than wear.

Check the ignition system for a failed component, poor contact, or change in timing or point gap. Check electronic module on electronic ignition.

Check the fuel system for an obstruction.

carburetion. Poor performance at idle is described earlier. Misfiring at low speed (just above idle) can be caused by a dirty low-speed circuit or jet (Figure 13). Poor midrange performance is attributable to a worn or incorrectly adjusted needle and needle jet. Misfiring at high speed (if not ignition related) is usually caused by a too-large main jet which causes the engine to run rich. Any of these carburetorrelated conditions can be corrected by first cleaning the carburetor and then adjusting i t as

22

Overheating is difficult t o detect unless i t is extreme, in which case it will usually be apparent as excessive heat radiating from the engine, accon~paniedby the smell of hot oil and sharp, snapping noises when the engine is first shut off and begins t o cool.

Unless the motorcycle is operated under sustained high load or is allowed t o idle for long periods of time, overheating is usually the result of an internal problem. Most often it’s caused by a too-lean fuel mixture.

Remove the spark plug and compare i t to Figure 3. If a too-lean condition is indicated, check for leaks in the intake manifold (see Poor Idling).The carburetor jetting may be incorrect but this is unlikely if the overheating problem has just developed (unless, of course, the engine was jetted for high altitude and is now being run near sea level). Check the slide needle in the carburetor to make sure i t hasn’t come loose and is restricting the flow of gas through the main jet and needle jet (Figure 17).

Check the ignition timing: extremes o f either advance or retard can cause overheating.

Piston Seizure and Damage

Piston seizure is a common result o f overheating (see above) because an aluminum piston expands at a greater rate than a steel cylinder. Seizure can also be caused by piston- to-cylinder clearance that is too small; ring end gap that is too small; insufficient oil: spark plug heat range too hot; and broken piston ring or ring land.

A major piston seizure can cause severe engine damage. A minor seizure — which usually subsides after the engine has cooled a few minutes — rarely does more than scuff the piston skirt the first time it occurs. Fortunately, this condition can be corrected by dressing the piston with crocus cloth, refitting the piston and rings to the bore with recommended clearances, and checking the timing t o ensure overheating does not occur. Regard that first seizure as a warning and correct the problem before continuing t o run the engine.

CLUTCH A N D TRANSMISSION

CHAPTER TWO

Needle\ \

(Figure 18). Check the contact surfaces for wear and glazing. Transmission oil additives also can cause slippage in wet clutches. If slip occurs only under extreme load, check the condition of the springs or diaphragm and make sure the clutch bolts are snug and uniformly tightened.

transmission oil (in wet clutch systems) is extremely dirty o r heavy, i t may inhibit the clutch

TRANSMISSION SLIPS OUT OF GEAR

rRANSMlSSlON SHIFTS HARD

Check for bent selector shaft

:heck overshift travel and increase if i n s u f f i c i e q

TRANSMISSION IS NOISY

Check oil level

30

worn seals. Rebuildable shocks should be refitted with complete service kits and fresh oil. Non-rebuildable units should be replaced.

5 . Rear suspension sticks-This is commonly caused by a bent shock absorber piston rod (Figure 26). Replace the shock; the rod can’t be satisfactorily straightened.

6. Steering is tight o r «notchy»-Steering head bearings may be dry, dirty, or worn. Adjustment of the steering head bearing pre-load may be too tight.

7 . Steering is sloppy-Steering head adjustment may be too loose. Also check the swing arm pivot; looseness or extreme wear at this point translate t o the steering.

BRAKES

Brake problems arise from wear, lack of maintenance, and from sustained or repeated

are most likely caused by incorrect adjustment. If adjustment will not correct the problem, remove the wheels and check for worn or glazed linings. If the linings are worn beyond the service limit, replace them. If they are simply glazed, rough them u p with light sandpaper.

In hydraulic brake systems, low fluid levels can cause a loss of braking effectiveness, as can worn brake cylinder pistons and bores. Also check the pads to see if they are worn beyond the service limit.

2. Brakes lock o r drag-This may be caused by incorrect adjustment. Check also for foreign matter embedded in the lining a n d for dirty and dry wheel bearings.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Many electrical system problems can be easily solved by ensuring that the affected connections are clean, dry, and tight. In battery equipped motorcycles, a neglected battery is the source of a great number of difficulties that could be prevented by simple, regular service to the battery.

A multimeter, like the volt/ohm/milliammeter described in Chapter One, is invaluable for efficient electrical system troubleshooting.

See Figures 27 and 28 for schematics showing

simplified conventional and electronic ignition systems. Typical and most common electrical troubles are also described.

CHARGING SYSTEM

1 . Battery will not accept a charge-Make sure the electrolyte level in the battery is correct and that the terminal connections are tight and free of corrosion. Check for fuses in the battery circuit. If the battery is satisfactory, refer to the electrical system chapter for alternator tests. Finally, keep in mind that even a good alternator is not capable of restoring the charge t o a severely discharged battery; i t must first be charged by an external source.

2. Battery will not hold a charge-Check the battery for sulfate deposits in the bottom of the case (Figure 29). Sulfation occurs naturally and the deposits will accumulate and eventually come in contact with the plates and short them out. Sulfation can be greatly retarded by keeping the battery well charged at all times. Test the battery to assess its condition.

eventually burn out, but if the bulb in one particular light burns out frequently check the light assembly for looseness that may permit excessive vibration; check for loose connections that could cause current surges; check also to make sure the bulb is of the correct rating.

FUSES

Fuse blows-When a fuse blows, don’t just replace it; try to find the cause. Consider a fuse

a warning device a s well as a safety device. And never replace a fuse with one of greater amperage rating. It probably won’t melt before the insulation on the wiring does.

WIRING

Wiring problems should be corrected as soon as they arise — before a short can cause a fire that may seriously damage or destroy the motorcycle.

A circuit tester of some type is essential for locating shorts and opens. Use the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of the book for reference. If a wire must be replaced make a notation on the wiring diagram of any changes in color coding.

CHAPTER THREE

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

34

when introduced, are not necessarily identified by year but by model number suffix.See Table 2 at the end of this chapter for model year and model suffix equivalents.

When you need to order parts for your motorcycle, make sure you get the right ones. Note the frame serial number on the steering head (Figure 1) and the engine serial number on the engine cases (Figure 2). Your dealer will often need these numbers to get the right parts for your bike.

BATTERY

The battery electrolyte level should be checked regularly, particularly during hot weather. Motorcycle batteries are marked with electrolyte level limit lines (Figure 3). Always maintain the fluid level between the lines, adding distilled water as required. Distilled water is available at most supermarkets and its use will prolong the life of the battery, especially in areas where tap water is hard (has a high mineral content).

Inspect the fluid level in all the cells. The battery is under the seat (Figure 4). Refer to Battery in Chapter Eight before removing the battery from the motorcycle.

W A R N I N G

Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid, which can destroy clothing and cause serious chemical burns. Electrolyte splashed into the eyes is extremely dangerous; wear safety glasses. In case of contact, flood with cool waterfor about 5 minutes and call a doctor immediately If the eyes were exposed.

Don’t overfill the battery or you’ll lose some electrolyte, weakening the battery and causing corrosion. Never allow the electrolyte level to drop below the top of the plates, or the plates may be permanently damaged.

CAUTION

Ifelectrolyte is spilled on the motorcycle, wash it o f f immediately with plenty of water.

38

CAUTION

Be careful not to cut the kill switch wires on the edge of the throttle grip housing.

2.Slide the grip back and grease the handlebar under the grip and the cable end (Figure 16).

3.Reassemble the twist grip housing, fitting the upper housing peg into the hole in the handlebar. Check tha t t h e grip works smoothly.

Speedometer/Tachometer Cables

Disconnect the cables at the lower end. Pull the inner cable out, apply a light coat ofgrease and reinstall the cables. You may have to rotate the wheel to allow the speedometer cable to seat. If the tachometer cable won’t seat, rotate the engine with the starter. Tighten the cable fasteners securely.

Ignition Advance

To lubricate t h e ignition advanc e mechanism, refer t o Ignition Advance in Chapter Four.

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

Clutch Lever Play

The clutch cable should have about 1/8 in. (2-3 mm) play at the cable end of the lever before the clutch starts to disengage (Figure 17). Minor adjustments can be made at the hand lever; loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster as required and tighten the locknut.

According to the maintenance schedule (Table 1) an d whenever t h e han d lever adjustment range is used up, adjust the clutch release as described here.

Clutch Release Adjustment

As the clutch cable stretches, cable play will exceed the range of the cable adjusters. As the clutch plates and discs inside the engine wear, the clutch release must be adjusted even when the cable play is within tolerance or the clutch can drag and cause rapid wear. Adjust the clutch as follows.

I . In front of the engine, loosen the clutch mid-cable adjuster locknut and shorten the adjuster all the way (Figure 18).

chain tojump offthe sprockets with potentially disasterous results.

1.Put the motorcycle on its centerstand.

2.Turn the rear wheel slowly until you locate the part ofchain that stretches tightest between the 2 sprockets on the bottom chain run (the chain wears unevenly).

3.With thumb and forefinger, lift up and press down the chain at that point, measuring the distance the chain moves vertically. The chain

should have about 1 in. (25 mm) of vertical travel at midpoint (Figure 23). If it has less than 1in. (20 mm) or more than 1 3/8 in. (35 mm) of travel, adjust the chain play.

Adjustment

When adjusting the drive chain, you must also maintai n rear wheel alignment. A misaligned rear wheel can cause poor handling and pulling to one side o r the other, as well as increased chain, sprocket and tire wear. All models have wheel alignment marks on the swing arm and chain adjusters. Ifthe alignment marks are kept at the same position left and right, t h e rear wheel should be aligned correctly.

1. Remove the rear axle nut cotter pin and remove the axle nut (A, Figure 24).