Эхолот cuda 242 инструкция по применению

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  Pub. 988-0143-842 www.eaglesonar.com & Cuda 242 Portable  Fish-finding and Depth Sounding Sonars Installation and Operation Instructions…
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  ® trademarks of LEI. Eagle Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our policies, regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so without notice. All features and specifications subject to change without notice.

• Page 3: Table Of Contents

  Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation …18 Testing Determines Best Location …19 Shoot-Thru-Hull Installation …21 Power Connections (permanent mount only) …23 Mounting the Sonar Unit: In-Dash, Bracket or Portable …25 Bracket Installation …25 Portable Sonar Installation …28 Installing the Batteries…29 Mounting the Unit …30 Portable Transducer Assembly …31…

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  ® Grayline …43 Chart Speed …45 Fish I.D. …47 FishTrack™ …48 Alarms…49 Fish Alarm …49 Depth Alarms …50 Shallow Alarm …50 Deep Alarm…51 Battery Alarm…52 Noise Reject and ASP …53 Depth Display…54 Temperature Display …54 Voltage …56 Units…56 Backlight…57 Contrast …57 Simulator …58 Set Language …58 Software Information…59…

• Page 5: Introduction

  – right out of the box. All you have to do is press the on ( To get started with your Eagle sonar, first read the installation section. It contains instructions for mounting the sonar unit, the transducer and any optional accessories, such as a speed sensor.

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  Current drain: …170 ma lights off; 240 ma lights on. Back-up memory:…Built-in memory stores sonar settings when Frequency: …200 kHz. Transducers:…A Skimmer Transmitter:…800 watts peak-to-peak power (typical); 100 Sonar sounding depth capability:…600 feet (180 meters). Actual capability de- Depth display: …Continuous digital readout.

• Page 7: How Sonar Works

  How Sonar Works Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions used in this manual. But, if you’ve never owned a sonar fish finder, this segment will tell you the underwater basics.

• Page 8: Preparations

  You should read over this entire installation section before drill- ing any holes in your vehicle or vessel! 1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power.

• Page 9: Recommended Tools And Supplies

  Depending on your sonar unit’s connectors, your transducer cable may also have the sonar unit’s power cable attached to it. If that is the case, be sure to install the transducer first, before connecting the power cable to a power source. See the instructions later in this manual for connect- ing the power cable to a battery or other power supply.

• Page 10: Selecting A Transducer Location

  If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar’s display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving.

• Page 11: How Low Should You Go

  5. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can be displayed on the sonar’s screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.

• Page 12: Shoot-Thru-Hull Vs. Transom Mounting

  Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. The sonar «ping» signal actually passes through the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installa- tion (often called «thru-hull»). In that case, a hole is cut in the hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull with a threaded shaft and nut.

• Page 13: Transom Transducer Assembly And Mounting

  There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can’t be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer. However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull.

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  Align plastic ratchets in bracket. 2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the trans- ducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the trans- ducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is par- allel to the ground.
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  Ratchets Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom. 3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct posi- tion for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don’t tighten the lock nut at this time. Rubber washers Assemble transducer and bracket.
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  the ground. The transducer’s centerline should be in line with the bot- tom of the hull. Don’t let the bracket extend below the hull! Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot. Drill the holes.
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  Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown (left) and seen from above (right). Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down until it’s aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures.
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  Align transducer centerline with hull bottom 6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure you leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring.

• Page 19: Trolling Motor Bracket Installation

  7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the trans- ducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don’t allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull! Trolling Motor Bracket Installation 1.

• Page 20: Transducer Orientation And Fish Arches

  (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.

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  Transducer aimed too far back Full fish arch Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches. If the arch slopes up – but not back down – then the front of the trans- ducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised.

• Page 22: Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation

  The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass lay- ers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area.

• Page 23: Testing Determines Best Location

  1. Anchor the boat in about 30 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side of the boat in the water. Adjust the sensitiv- ity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display.

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  True bottom Second bottom Manual range setting Example of a second bottom signal. Unit is in 30 feet of water, with range set at 80 feet and sensitivity set at 87 percent. 2. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the sump of the boat, face down.

• Page 25: Shoot-Thru-Hull Installation

  4. Most people can get good results by following steps 1 through 3, so this step is optional. If you want to make an extra effort to be absolutely sure that your selected location will work under all conditions, make a test run with the boat on plane and observe the bottom signal.

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  Sand this surface Orient the Skimmer with the nose facing the bow of the boat. WARNING: Use only the epoxy available from LEI. It has been for- mulated to work with these installation procedures. Other epoxy types may be too thin or may not cure to the right consistency for optimum transducer perform- ance.

• Page 27: Power Connections (Permanent Mount Only)

  Leave the weight in place for a minimum of three hours. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before moving the boat. 5. After the epoxy has cured, route the cable to the sonar unit and it’s ready to use.

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  To unit Power connections for the Cuda 242 sonar unit (direct battery connection shown). If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, espe- cially the engine’s wires.

• Page 29: Mounting The Sonar Unit: In-Dash, Bracket Or Portable

  Mounting the Sonar Unit: In-Dash, Bracket or Portable You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied bracket. This unit can be installed in a dash with the optional FM-6 in- dash adapter kit.

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  [3.03] Front view (left) and side view (right) showing dimensions of the Cuda 242 when mounted on quick release bracket. After drilling the hole, pass the connectors up through the hole from under the dash. If you wish, you can fill in the hole around the cable with a good marine caulking compound.
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  Ratchet Screw hole Power/transducer cable Cuda 242 quick release mounting bracket. Slots in the base allow rout- ing the cable from beneath the mount. Attach the unit to the bracket by first connecting the power/transducer and accessory cables. Then, hold the sonar unit vertically and slide it onto the bracket from above.

• Page 32: Portable Sonar Installation

  Adjust viewing angle: use one hand to press and release the spring- loaded ratchets while you move the unit with the other hand. Portable Sonar Installation Like many Eagle products, the Cuda 242 sonar is capable of portable operation. It uses the optional PPP-12 portable power pack. Bracket front…

• Page 33: Installing The Batteries

  The power pack and portable transducers expand the uses for your so- nar. You can use your Cuda 242 sonar unit on your boat or take it to the dock, on a float tube, on an ice fishing trip or use it as a second so- nar in a friend’s boat.

• Page 34: Mounting The Unit

  A quick-release mount is built into the top of the portable power pack. To attach the unit, first plug in the cable connector. Then, hold the sonar unit vertically and slide it onto the bracket from above. (The back of the unit should be touching the front of the bracket as you lower it into position.)

• Page 35: Portable Transducer Assembly

  To remove the unit from the PPP-12, press the ratchets and lift the unit off the bracket. Turn the sonar unit on. If it works, turn it off and finish assembling the portable transducer. If it doesn’t work, make sure the battery terminals are making good contact against the battery contacts.

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  Moisten the suction cup, then press it onto the hull as firmly as possi- ble. Tie the nylon cord to the boat and set the power pack and sonar unit in a location for easy viewing. Your portable sonar is now ready for use.

• Page 37: Portable Transducer Storage

  Portable Transducer Storage There is room inside the power pack for the portable transducer. When you’re finished fishing, tilt the sonar down to the storage position. Open the case and lay it flat. Unplug the power connector from the battery compartment socket.

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  Notes…

• Page 39: Operation

  The unit sounds a tone when you press any key. This tells you the unit has accepted a command. Numbers in the figure correspond to key ex- planations below: Eagle Cuda 242 keyboard. 1. PWR/CLEAR In this manual, the Power/Clear key is referred to as .

• Page 40: Memory

  ↓ (DOWN) ↑ (UP) this manual. You will use these keys to adjust most features and functions on the Cuda 242. Memory This unit has permanent memory that saves the following user settings when power is turned off: Units of Measure, Temp Size, Depth Size, Fish I.D.

• Page 41: Display

  In the following figure, the screen shows a depth range from 0 to 80 feet and the bottom depth is 36.9 feet, shown by the digital sonar. The water temperature is 34.5° F.

• Page 42: Full Chart

  The bottom signal scrolls across the screen from right to left. The line at the top of the screen represents the surface. The bottom depth — determined by the digital sonar — shows in the upper left corner.

• Page 43: Depth Range

  If the transducer with a built-in temperature sensor is connected, a digital display for water temperature also will be shown. This tempera- ture display can be turned on and off. Depth Range When turned on, the unit automatically adjusts the depth range ac- cording to water conditions.

• Page 44: Zoom

  Zoom The zoom feature enlarges all images on the screen by doubling the size of the echoes (a 2X zoom). For example, if the current auto depth range is 0 to 60 feet, Zoom will show an enlarged view of the water column from 30 feet to 60 feet, always keeping the bottom in view.

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  NOTE: Using the Zoom command while in auto Zoom mode will always enlarge the echoes near the bottom, because auto Range always keeps the bottom displayed in the lower portion of the screen. When you choose to use the zoom feature while the unit is in man- ual Depth Range mode, you can select one of 17 pre-set Zoom Ranges.

• Page 46: Sensitivity

  Sensitivity Sensitivity adjusts the way echoes will be displayed on the screen. If you want to see more detail, try increasing the sensitivity, a little at a time. There are situations when too much clutter appears on the screen. Decreasing the sensitivity can reduce the clutter and show the strongest fish echoes, if fish are present.

• Page 47: Grayline

  , then press ANUAL the same steps used for adjusting sensitivity in auto mode above. Bait school Fig. 1 Fig. 3 These figures show results of different sensitivity levels on the same location. Fig. 1: Sensitivity at 98 percent, determined by Auto Sensitiv- ity.

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  Grayline is adjustable. Since Grayline shows the difference between strong and weak signals, adjusting the sensitivity may also require a different Grayline level. The level chosen by the sonar unit at power on is usually adequate for most conditions. Experiment with your unit to find the Grayline setting that’s best for you.

• Page 49: Chart Speed

  Thin or no Grayline A small amount of Grayline indicates a soft bottom (left), probably sand or mud. More Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom (right). Press to increase the level of Grayline or press ↑ oes scrolling onto the screen will show the effects of the Grayline change.

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  50 percent. When you are stationary and a fish swims through the sonar signal cone, the image appears on the screen as a long line in- stead of a fish arch. Reducing the chart speed may result in a shorter line that more closely resembles a regular fish return.

• Page 51: Fish I.d

  Underwater scene in normal fish arch mode (left). Fish I.D. menu with Fish I.D. is an easier way for a sonar novice to recognize a fish signal return when he sees it. But, locating fish by symbol only does have some limitations.

• Page 52: Fishtrack

  Remember: Fish I.D. is one of the many tools we provide so you can analyze your sonar returns for maximum fish finding informa- tion. This and other features can help you «see» beneath the boat under varied water and fishing conditions.

• Page 53: Alarms

  Fish ID menu and symbol with FishTrack on. The fish is 44 feet deep. Alarms The sonar unit has four types of alarms: fish, shallow, deep and bat- tery. Fish Alarm The Fish Alarm sounds a tone when a fish symbol appears on the screen.

• Page 54: Depth Alarms

  To turn on Fish I.D., press to select , then press ↓ appears. Press to select ↑ To turn off fish alarm press select , then press Depth Alarms The depth alarms are triggered only by the bottom signal. No other echoes will activate these alarms.

• Page 55: Deep Alarm

  depth has been entered in the dialog box. To move the cursor back to any of the previously entered numbers, press press to return to the Shallow Alarm menu. Use which will turn on the alarm, then press the bottom depth becomes shallower than the alarm’s setting, an alarm will sound and a message will appear on the screen.

• Page 56: Battery Alarm

  to return to the Deep Alarm menu. Use ↑ to select press will turn on the alarm, then press bottom depth becomes deeper than the alarm’s setting, an alarm will sound and a message will appear on the screen. Battery Alarm To set the shallow alarm depth, press appears.

• Page 57: Noise Reject And Asp

  ASP is an effective tool in combating noise. In sonar terms, noise is any undesired signal. It is caused by electrical and mechanical sources such as bilge pumps, engine ignition systems, wiring, air bubbles passing over the face of the transducer and even vibration from the engine.

• Page 58: Depth Display

  There are times when you may want to turn off ASP. This allows you to view all incoming echoes before they are processed by the ASP feature. To change the ASP setting, press until the MENU DOWN OISE EJECTION menu appears. Use to select the desired setting, then press ↑…

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  Temperature menu set to off (left). Temperature set to be displayed at small size (right). To display Temperature: Repeatedly press until the menu appears. Use ↑ ↓ MENU EMPERATURE select the size of the temperature display. Press to clear the menu. Voltage menu with the voltage display turned off (left) and with volt- age set to a small display size (right).

• Page 60: Voltage

  Voltage The Voltage menu allows you to display battery voltage on the screen in a small or medium size or can be turned off completely. To display battery voltage: Repeatedly press MENU lect the size of the voltage display. Press Units This unit can show the depth in feet or meters and temperature in Cel- sius or Fahrenheit.

• Page 61: Backlight

  Backlight The display’s backlight allows the unit to be used at night. To turn the backlight on or off, press repeatedly until the menu MENU ACKLIGHT appears. Press to turn the light on or to turn it off. ↑ ↓ Backlight turned on (left).

• Page 62: Simulator

  Simulator menu. Simulator This unit has a built-in simulator that shows a simulated bottom signal with fish signals. This lets you practice with the unit as if you were on the water; all features and functions of the unit are usable. A message ap- pears occasionally to remind you that the simulator is on.

• Page 63: Software Information

  Language menu with English selected (left) and Italian (right). To select a language: 1. Repeatedly press until the Languages menu appears. MENU 2. Use ↑ ↓ to select the desired language. All menus now appear in the language you selected. Press to exit.

• Page 64: Reset Options

  Software information screen. Reset Options This command is used to reset all features, options and settings to their original factory defaults. This is useful when you have changed several settings and want to reset the unit to basic automatic operation. Turn the unit off.

• Page 65: Troubleshooting

  Unit freezes, locks up, or operates erratically: 1. Electrical noise from the boat’s motor, trolling motor, or an accessory may be interfering with the sonar unit. Rerouting the power and trans- ducer cables away from other electrical wiring on the boat may help.

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  This can cause the unit to eliminate weaker signals such as fish or even structure from the display. 3. The water may be deeper than the sonar’s ability to find the bottom. If the sonar can’t find the bottom signal while it’s in the automatic mode, the digital sonar display will flash continuously.
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  With the boat at rest in the water, the first thing you should do is turn all electrical equipment on the boat off. Make sure the engine is also off. Turn your sonar on, then turn off Noise Re- ject [also known as the ASP feature (Advanced Signal Processing)].
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  VHF radio antenna cables radiate noise when transmitting, so be certain to keep the sonar’s wires away from it. You may need to route the sonar unit’s power cable directly to the battery to isolate it from other wiring on the boat.
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  «We,» «our,» or «us» refers to EAGLE ELECTRONICS, a division of LEI, the manufacturer of this product. «You» or «your» refers to the first person who purchases this product as a consumer item for personal, family, or household use. We warrant this product against defects or malfunctions in materials and workmanship, and against failure to conform to this product’s written specifications, all for one (1) year from the date of original purchase by you.

• Page 70: How To Obtain Service

  8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Central Standard Time, M-F Eagle Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our shipping policies, regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so without notice.

• Page 71: Accessory Ordering Information

  To locate an Eagle dealer near you, visit our web site, www.eaglesonar.com and look for the Dealer Locator. Or, you can consult your telephone directory for listings.

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  Visit our web site: www.eaglesonar.com  Eagle Pub. 988-0143-842 © Copyright 2006 All Rights Reserved Printed in USA 030206 LEI-Eagle…

Pub. 988-0143-842

www.eaglesonar.com

& Cuda 242 Portable

Fish-finding and Depth Sounding Sonars

Introduction

Thank you for buying an Eagle sonar! Your unit is a high-quality sonar designed for both professional and novice fishermen. All Eagle sonars have an automatic mode that finds and displays the bottom, fish, underwater structure and more – right out of the box. All you have to do is press the on (PWR) key.

To get started with your Eagle sonar, first read the installation section. It contains instructions for mounting the sonar unit, the transducer and any optional accessories, such as a speed sensor.

Following recommended installation practices will pay off in optimum performance of your Eagle sonar. Improper installation can cause problems down the road, especially if the transducer is badly mounted.

After you’ve read the installation instructions, install the unit and accessories. Then, read the rest of the manual. The more you know about your sonar, the better it will work for you.

Capabilities and Specifications: Cuda 242 & Cuda

242 Portable

This manual covers the Cuda 242 and Cuda 242 Portable. Both units operate the same way. The only difference between the two is that the portable unit includes a portable transducer and other items that enable portable use.

NOTICE!

The storage temperature for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended storage in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory’s Customer Service Department; phone numbers are inside the manual’s back cover.

How Sonar Works

Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions used in this manual. But, if you’ve never owned a sonar fish finder, this segment will tell you the underwater basics.

Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NAvigation and Ranging, a technology developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines. A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here’s how it finds the bottom, or the fish:

The transmitter emits an electrical impulse, which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. (The sound frequency can’t be heard by humans or fish.) The sound wave strikes an object (fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer, which converts the sound back into an electrical signal.

The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the display, where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar chart. The sonar’s microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.

Transducer Installation

Preparations

The following shows the recommended sequence for installing the transducer:

CAUTION:

You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vehicle or vessel!

1.Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power. This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration.

2.Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its cable route.

3.Determine the location of your battery or other power connection, along with the power cable route.

4.Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar unit.

5.Route the power cable from the unit’s location to an appropriate power source and connect it there.

6.Connect the transducer/power cable to the unit and mount the sonar unit on the bracket.

Installation

These instructions will help you install your Skimmer transducer on a transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull. Please read all instructions before proceeding with any installation. Your Skimmer transducer typically comes packaged with a one-piece stainless steel bracket for mounting it to the transom of your boat. The trolling motor mount uses a onepiece plastic bracket with an adjustable strap.

These are all «kick-up» mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the transducer does «kick-up,» the bracket can easily be pushed back into place without tools.

Depending on your sonar unit’s connectors, your transducer cable may also have the sonar unit’s power cable attached to it. If that is the case, be sure to install the transducer first, before connecting the power cable to a power source. See the instructions later in this manual for connecting the power cable to a battery or other power supply.

Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation. Determine which of the mounting positions is right for your boat. Use extreme care if mounting the transducer inside the hull, because once it is epoxied into position, the transducer usually cannot be removed.

Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part of a sonar installation.

Recommended Tools and supplies

If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you will need a 5/8″ drill bit. Each transom mount requires use of a high quality, marine grade aboveor below-waterline caulking compound.

NOTE:

The following installation types also call for these recommended tools and required supplies (supplies are not included):

Single-frequency transom installations

Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136″) drill bit, flathead screwdriver (for mounting screws and their pilot holes). Supplies: none.

Single-frequency trolling motor installations

Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic cable ties.

Shoot-through hull installations

Tools: these will vary depending on your hull’s composition. Consult your boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, specially for-

mulated epoxy adhesive available from LEI (see ordering information on the inside back cover). A sandwich hull also requires polyester resin.

Selecting a Transducer Location

1.The location must be in the water at all times, at all operating speeds.

2.The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar’s display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving.

NOTE:

Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good transom location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine.

3. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight down, if possible. For shoot-thru applications: Many popular fishing boat hulls have a flat keel pad that offers a good mounting surface. On vee hulls, try to place the transducer where the deadrise is 10° or less.

Deadrise less than 10°

Strakes

Pad

Vee pad hull (left); Vee hull (right). A pod style transducer is shown here, but the principle is the same for Skimmers inside a hull.

4. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn’t interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don’t mount it closer than approximately one foot from the engine’s lower unit. This will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation.

5. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can be displayed on the sonar’s screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.

CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near the transducer. This will help prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.

Good location

Good and poor transducer locations.

How low should you go?

For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.

Transom

Transducer centerline

Hull bottom

Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.

However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes. Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this.

If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may move the transducer a little higher for more protection.

There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the bottom – the face – of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull.

Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting

In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. The sonar «ping» signal actually passes through the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installation (often called «thru-hull»). In that case, a hole is cut in the hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull with a threaded shaft and nut. This puts the transducer in direct contact with the water.

Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability.

There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can’t be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer.

However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction.

Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can be a problem on hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds.

Third, a transducer CAN NOT shoot through wood and metal hulls. Those hulls require either a transom mount or a thru-hull installation.

Fourth, a Skimmer transducer with a built-in temp sensor will show only the temperature of the bilge, not the water surface temp.

Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull.

Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting

The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the parts first, place the transducer’s bracket against the transom and see if you can move the transducer so that it’s parallel with the ground.

1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the bracket with the letter «A» aligned with the dot stamped into the metal bracket.

This position sets the transducer’s coarse angle adjustment for a 14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14° angle.

the ground. The transducer’s centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don’t let the bracket extend below the hull!

Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot.

Drill the holes. Use the #29 bit (for the #10 screws).

Transom

Transom

Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.

5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.

7.Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don’t allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull!

Trolling Motor Bracket Installation

1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. (Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)

TMB-S bracket

Internal tooth washer

Flat washer

Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.

2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely.

3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.

Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.

Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches

If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Full fish arch

Proper transducer angle

Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.

If the arch slopes up – but not back down – then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised.

NOTE:

Periodically wash the transducer’s face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation.

Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation

Hulls with Flotation Materials

The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area. See the figure below.

WARNING:

Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless you know the hull’s composition. Careless grinding or cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications.

Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.

For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures for 24 hours, fill the remaining space with polyester resin. When the job is finished, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the